Friday, January 20, 2012

My Ashkenazic Challah Recipe

There is a saying that it's not Jews that keep Shabbat (the Sabbath), but Shabbat that keeps the Jews. Putting an end to the worries of the outside world is amazingly cathartic. Accepting that you have built the world you are going to build to this point; that there is no more that I can fix, cook, wash, or repair frees me to be in the moment - as a father, a husband, a human being - in a way that nothing else can. It is a difficult task, this letting go of stuff, and it's really hard to learn how to do. But now that we've trained ourselves, I feel the weight of world lifted from my shoulders the moment I walk into the room and see the Shabbat candles dancing softly in the window. I know that, for the next 25 hours at least, the relationships I am building are about connectedness and real intimacy, not about business deals and getting things done. Shabbat does really keep me - it keeps me Jewish certainly, but more than that, it keeps me wholly human.


I first made challah in Hebrew Day School. The teacher brought in a large pile of dough, cut it into pieces for each of us. We took three plaits and braided them just like we did with our playdough, brushed them with a little egg yolk and off they went to be baked. The whole adventure took about 10 minutes, and we beamed so proudly as we brought the baby loaves home to take their place on the Shabbat table next to the store bought giants from Friedman's Bakery.

It would be years before I learned how to make my own challah. There are so many recipes out there, all of them - or none of them (if you prefer), are the official versions. My recipe, like so many things in my life,  really came into its own in Bethel, Alaska. Don't let anyone tell you differently. Bethel may be remote, but the cosmopolitan metropolis nestled along the Kuskokwim River in the bossom of the Kilbuk and Yukon Mountain ranges is anything but rural. We had many teachers there, and out of courage, creativity, and necessity many new things were born - including this recipe.

Ashkenazic challah is what most people think of when they think challah:  braided strands of sweet dough, wrapped in a golden coat of brushed egg, and sprinkled with either sesame or poppy seeds. Sephardic challah is different in that it can't have any flavors which compete with the flour - so it can't be sweet. It also can't be cakey, so out go the eggs. Finally, honey - which is what I use in this, my Ashkenazic challah recipe, is a complete no-no.

Making this dough takes about 25 minutes of work, with a bunch of rests points throughout. It's easy and delicious, and will stay fresh for a few days. Enjoy!

Ingredients
  • 1 cup of lukewarm water
  • 1 Tbs dry yeast
  • 1 Tbs sugar
  • 1/2 cup honey
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 3 whole eggs
  • 1 egg separated
  • approximately 1/2 cup of lukewarm water
  • 1 Tbs kosher salt
  • 7.5 cups of unbleached wheat flour
  • 1 Tbs water
  • 1/4 cup of either sesame or poppy seeds - divided.
Directions

  1. In a large bowl add water, yeast, and sugar. Stir and let it stand about 5 minutes
  2. Add 1 cup of flour to the bowl. Mix it well to incorporate and then let it rest about 15 minutes
  3. Meanwhile, put honey and oil  in a two cup (or larger) liquid measuring cup
  4. Checking each egg for blood first, add the first 3 whole eggs to the measuring cup.
  5. Check and the separate the fourth egg, adding the white to the measuring cup and reserving the yolk in a small bowl. Cover the yolk bowl with plastic wrap, and place in the refrigerator for later.
  6.  Using a wooden spoon, mix all the ingredients in the measuring cup very well. Pour them into the large bowl of dough. Stir.
  7. Add the salt and stir.
  8. Add 3 cups of flour to the stir. Add 1.5 cups of flour and stir. Continue adding the 1/2 of the remaining flour to the bowl until you can't stir any more into the dough (this should be about 7 cups).
  9. Dust the counter with 1/4 cup flour. Turn the dough out on to the counter and knead for about 5 minutes, adding additional flour as necessary. Your dough should be soft and spring back to the touch.
  10. Put the dough back in the bowl, cover with a damp towel or a plastic bag and let it rest in a warm, draft free spot for about 1 hour or so.
  11. Turn the dough out onto the counter. If it is you minhag (custom), you should take an olive size piece of dough off the big dough ball and save it on the side until you are ready to bake your loaves.
  12. Cut the dough into 3 equal sized pieces. Each piece will become 1 challah.
  13. You now have a choice. You can cut each piece into 3 plaits (simpler to braid), or 6 (a bit harder). We are working on a braiding video, so, for now, braid whichever is easier for you. Place the loaves on a baking sheet


  14. Get the egg yolk out of the refrigerator, add 1 Tbs water, and beat. Using a pastry brush, paint the loaves with egg wash. If you want to, sprinkle with you choice of seed.
  15. Place loaves in a warm draft free place to rise for 1 hour.
  16. Preheat the oven to 325. When it comes to temperature, place loaves on a rack in the center of the oven and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the loaves are golden.
  17. Remove the loaves from the sheet pan and let them cool on a cookie rack.
  18. Wait until the loaves have completely cooled, and store in resealable plastic bags for a longer life.

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