Monday, March 18, 2013

Charoset (1) - Iraqi date syrup with ground nuts


The Passover seder is a carefully choreographed event. On that first night, all across the world, you will find Jews dutifully reliving the ancient Passover experience through the pages of the Hagaddah (the combination prayer book, instruction manual, and road map). The script was set some two eons ago: Kadesh, Urchatz, Karpas, Yahatz... And since we were tiny the acts have played themselves out the same way each year, so that no matter the background or affiliation, we can step into one another's seder with relative ease. 

The one thing that changes is the food, and nowhere is the diversity of flavors more evident than in Charoset, the food meant to symbolize the mortar our ancestors used to build Egypt's cities and temples. Luscious in its sweetness, charoset stands in stark contrast to the bitter herbs they accompany on a Hillel sandwich (matzo, charoset, and bitter herbs). There are as many variations to this venerable favorite as there are countries in which Jews have lived. 

Here is the traditional charoset of Iraqi Jews. Using dates, rich in flavor and plentiful, as a foundation, the syrup reminded them of the promised land which lay ahead, flowing as it were, with milk and (date) honey. 


There are two different methods for this recipe, one makes a thick date paste and the other, more involved method, makes a date syrup the consistency of honey or molasses. 

Method One (Date Paste)

Ingredients

  • 2 cups (500 ml) Iraqi dates, chopped and seeded
  • 1/4 cup boiling water (60 ml)
  • pinch of salt
  • 1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped walnuts or pistachios
Instructions
  1. Place dates in a non-reactive sauce pan. Add boiling water and salt. Cook over low-medium heat, stirring frequently until they break down and form a thick paste, the consistency of frosting. You may add a little bit more water to thin the paste if necessary.
  2. While still warm, stir in the finely chopped nuts.

Method Two (Date Syrup)

Ingredients
  • 4 cups of pitted madjul dates
  • approximately 6-7 cups of water - boiled
  • juice of half a lemon
  • 1/2 cup (125 ml) coarsely ground walnuts or pistachios
Instructions
  1. Put the dates in a non-reactive pot and cover with hot water by approximately 2 inches. Cover the pot and let stand 24 hours.
  2. Add lemon juice and then mash the dates using a fork.
  3. Put a strainer in a large bowl. Line the strainer with a piece of cheesecloth (approximately 18"x18").
  4. Pour the dates solution into the strainer. Pull up the corners of the cheesecloth and twist together to make a sack. Press and squeeze the sack to extract as much of the juice as possible. (Save the date pulp in the freezer for use in cookies or cakes)
  5. Return the liquid to the saucepan. Bring the liquid to a boil on med-high heat, and then reduce to a gentle simmer.
  6. Simmer for approximately an hour, or until the syrup thickens to cover the back of a spoon, making sure to stir often.
  7. Take it off the heat and place into a clean glass jar. and allow the syrup to cool.
  8. When you are ready to serve, pour the 1/2 cup of syrup into a shallow bowl and sprinkle with 1/4 cup of ground nuts.

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